Five Bodegones You Should Visit in Buenos Aires
The “bodegón”, which is a traditional Argentine canteen, is a classic in Buenos Aires and one of the most sought-after places for tasting some local delicacies. Which are the most popular in the city?
There is a certain mystique about this concept typical for those who live in the capital of Argentina, Buenos Aires. Because a bodegón goes beyond its definition in the dictionary. It works as a meeting place where food is the main character, that's for sure. But the heart of a true bodegón is the traditional dishes with no culinary ornaments: the menu includes plentiful homemade classic dishes at affordable prices. Milanesas, empanadas, fritters, omelettes, fried calamari, pasta, and stews are some stars of the house. And desserts are not left behind: flan with the iconic dulce de leche, fresh cheese and fruit paste (sweet potato or quince), pancakes and almendrados also vie for a place on the podium for those with a sweet tooth. Going to a bodegón is part of the albiceleste tradition and should be on every tourist's agenda.
Besides serving excellent cuisine, there are some details that no bodegón can ignore: the homely taste of every single meal, a decoration usually revolving around football (pennants, jerseys, photos of famous footballers), and a tango or local rock music playing in the background. The atmosphere is perfectly set to immerse oneself in an unparalleled culinary culture.
You will find thousands of them scattered around the many neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires, but here are a few you can't miss:
1) El Antojo
We are proud to announce that this place got the award for the best milanesa de bodegón in Buenos Aires. Obviously, it couldn't be left out from the list, and it's no surprise that the must-try speciality at its three locations (Villa del Parque, Caballito and Núñez) is none other than the exquisite and extremely tender milanesa (similar to a schnitzel). The cuts of beef used to make them can be Cap of Inside, Flat, Sirloin Tip or even Round Roll, and their preparation consists of dipping them in a battered egg and then in breadcrumbs. Once the most important step has been completed, they can be baked or fried, and when it comes to topping, it gets better. If you add ham, tomato and mozzarella, it is known as milanesa a la napolitana. If you add a fried egg to that formula, you get a milanesa a caballo. And so the list goes on, because innovation has no limits, and neither does tasting milanesas.
2) El Capricho
The neighbourhood of Boedo also joins the milanesa fever in this corner of the city. But that's not the only thing that stands out: pasta, croquettes, empanadas, pizza, and cakes are also among the many choices on the menu at El Capricho. Plentiful dishes are served in an ideal atmosphere for spending time with family or friends, and the service is just like that of an authentic bodegón.
3) El Preferido
There are classic bodegones and others that are a little more off the beaten track and experiment with reversed classics. That's what El Preferido is all about, a corner of Palermo where some famous personalities from all over the world have stopped by on their stay in Argentina. One of them was the British artist Dua Lipa, who caused a sensation in the Palermo neighbourhood with her presence in this iconic place that opened its doors in 1952 as a drinks shop. Its popularity grew, then food came in, and after reopening in 2019, the rest was history. Aesthetics, variety, and avant-garde blend together in classic dishes such as milanesas de bife de chorizo. Such is its fame that El Preferido made it to the 22nd place in Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants list.
4) Pasaje Cantina
Buenos Aires offers options for each and every one. Pasaje Cantina confirms this idea with an outstanding proposal: a bodegón run by two grannies. Villa Crespo is proud to break the rules with this place, while still perfectly embodying the true spirit of these charming places. If homemade food is the idea, there is nothing better than tasting delicacies prepared by grannies. María del Carmen and Teresita are sisters from Uruguay and have been in the business for more than 40 years with a single objective: to bring out the flavours of Argentina and make their diners happy. Ravioli, milanesas, potato and chard omelettes, tagliatelle and sandwiches are on the menu of this grandmothers' bodegón. A warm experience to savour local dishes that won't let you down.
5) El Ferroviario
Generous, rustic and friendly. They refer to themselves as “a different place” and the combination of words suits El Ferroviario (The Railman) very well. Set as a railway workshop -which is what it used to be in the past-, it is located close to the Vélez stadium, in Liniers, and is famous for its amazing asado. As in any great bodegón, milanesas are the norm here, especially large ones that can be shared by more than two people.