Route 40: 5 destinations to see in Santa Cruz
From the capital of Santa Cruz, Río Gallegos, to the Cave of Hands, passing through El Calafate, El Chaltén and Lake Posadas. Go along this fascinating path through the deepest Patagonia in Argentina.
Few people know that Santa Cruz is the second largest province in terms of land area in Argentina. That is why distances are usually long and perhaps it is in this territory where the authenticity of Patagonia is mostly felt. The remoteness, the steppe and the endless routes are very typical feautures of both Santa Cruz and the southernmost region of the country.
In this article, we take you on a tour along the legendary National Route N°40, the longest in the country, with more than 3,100 miles from north to south. Through this incredible road you can deviate few miles and find wonderful destinations made in Santa Cruz.
El Calafate, at the foot of the Perito Moreno Glacier
It is grandma's jewel, the most beautiful caress to the soul of any world traveler. El Calafate is the perfect place to stay if you visit Los Glaciares National Park. From there, the Perito Moreno glacier, the most famous of all glaciers, looms imposingly. The experience of seeing it so closely from the 2.49-mile walkway causes a unique sensation.
A must-do is the mini trekking above the ice, you will feel you are walking on the surface of another planet. But that's not all: at the end, you can have a whiskey with some authentic rocks from the glacier.
Even though the Perito Moreno steals all the attention, you can take a navigation on Lake Argentino to see other great glaciers, such as the Upsala and the Spegazzini.
As if all this wasn't enough, El Calafate has become a city with excellent hotel, gastronomic, shopping and walking options, such as, for example, the Nímez Lagoon or the waterfront along the Redonda Bay.
How to get El Calafate: From Route 40, when you reach the intersection of Provincial Route 11, go west and in just over half an hour, you will be in the city center of Calafate.
When to go: you can visit all year round, but remember that from June to September, it is winter time in Argentina and Patagonia is very cold and snowy. You can go to Los Glaciares National Park any day of the year, paying an entrance fee. Some activities are available from October to April only.
El Chaltén, the star of trekking
You've seen the majesty of the Perito Moreno Glacier and everything that surrounds El Calafate. Ok, but there's still so much more. You can leave the National Capital of Glaciers, take the 40 to the north for an hour until you reach the historic La Leona roadhouse. Stop for a coffee there and then continue a short while further north to the junction of Provincial Route 41 (former 23). Once there, head back west for a bit over an hour until reaching the National Capital of Trekking: El Chaltén. And last, but not least, before arriving, check out if the sky is clear, if so, you will see one of the best postcards of Patagonia on the horizon: Mount Fitz Roy. Undoubtedly, it is the image of El Chaltén, which will accompany you from beginning to end in this fairytale village.
Once in the village –around 3,200 people live there, but it is always packed with tourists from all over the world– you have several options of trekking trails. One of the best known –it requires great effort– is the Lagoon of the Three. The whole journey is impressive, ideal for taking thousands of photos.
Trails that take you to Lagoon Torre and Lagoon Capri are also a highlight. Watching the sunrise at the Condor Viewpoint and taking a boat ride on the Lake Desert are also strongly recommended
When to go: The best time is from October to April. The trails are free of charge.
Read more: Los Glaciares National Park: El Chaltén and El Calafate, Santa Cruz
Lake Posadas, the pearl to be discovered
"It's going to be the next El Chaltén," say the locals of this town of 500 inhabitants. Just as El Calafate is the perfect place to stay to go and see the glaciers, Lake Posadas is the same for seeing the lake of the same name and the Pueyrredón. It takes an hour from town to get to these lakes of different shades of color, separated by a 100-meter isthmus. Provincial Route 39 will take you there (it is a gravel road, although there are plans to asphalt it).
Once you cross the Furioso River, you will arrive at the Lake Pueyrredón refuge, a dream place to see the best sunrise and sunset of your life, among other things. The refuge opens from 7:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. and its owner, Facundo Mondelo, and his dog, Boki, will warmly greet you. "The refuge is open to tourists from October 1 to April 15," Facundo reports, adding that "the fishing season goes from July 15 to September 10. Many Brazilians, Chileans, Australians, and people from the US come. French, Germans, Chinese and Japanese are the minority. In summer, we have more Latinos and Spanish. Rainbow trout, brown trout and perch are caught."
In the refuge you can sleep in cottages and bungalows 6 meters away from the shore of Lake Pueyrredón. You can go kayaking (highly recommended!), trekking and horseback riding. A few meters away you can see rock art figures and you can also reach the beautiful Oro River’s Throat. If you want to spend the day there, you can eat yummy dishes, such as pasta with lamb sauce, roast lamb, pizzas and burgers, among others.
Once you leave the refuge, you can cross the isthmus –go from one river to another by kayak– and reach a spectacular viewpoint to see the landscape and the Arch of Stone, the icon of Lake Posadas.
How much it costs to spend one night in the refuge: USD 25 per person. WiFi is very good.
Cave of Hands, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1999, it is another must-see on Route 40 in Santa Cruz. Upon arriving at the entrance of the Provincial Park of the same name, travelers will find a charming guidehouse and the cabin to buy the ticket and meet the guide who will accompany them throughout the tour.
The circuit –to which you access with a helmet that the guide gives you at the entrance– borders the impressive Pinturas River Canyon. This geographical phenomenon was formed more than 200 million years ago. It is 100 kilometers long and offers a remarkable landscape in the middle of one of the great archaeological testimonies of the country. While the guide explains in detail the history of the place, on the right you can see the paintings of the famous hands of the native populations on the rocks. It is worth remembering that the oldest paintings are 9300 years old!
How to get Cave of Hands: Go along Route 40 –from the south the nearest town is Bajo Caracoles and from the north, Perito Moreno– until you see the detour indicated to access the Park. The detour road is unpaved and it takes about 45 minutes to reach the entrance. You can't sleep in the Park.
Ticket fee: USD 12
When to go: The park is open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. In winter, the last visit is at 4:00 pm.
Río Gallegos, the capital of Santa Cruz
The main city could not be missing. The largest and most populous city in the province is located in the southeast of Santa Cruz, just over two hours from kilometer 0 of Route 40, in Cape Virgenes (heading south).
Río Gallegos is the most urban point, cconsidering what a trip along Route 40 means in Santa Cruz. For this reason, it is a great idea to walk through its shopping center and take some souvenirs, visit the Museum of the Pioneers to understand better Patagonian life or contemplate the horizon drinking mate on the waterfront.